AVYA SKINCARE

AVYA SKINCARE

We are now offering the Avya Skincare line at TOC Medical Spa.  This line is close to us as one of the creators of the line, Dr. Tanuj Nakra, is one of our physicians.

Avya, “first rays of sun”, in Sanskrit, is a skin care line combining beneficial botanical extracts with medical grade active ingredients.  The line is specifically formulated to help manage pigment and melanin production.  It is appropriate and can be efficacious for all skin tones/types.

Avya contains antioxidants and anti-inflammatories from Peony, Turmeric and Neem.  The Curcumin in the Turmeric is colorless and odorless. (rather than the dark yellow we associate with this extract)

The Avya Skincare line has 5 products: a cleanser, day moisture, night moisture, eye cream, and serum.  The line utilizes Qusome™ technology, which allows the active ingredients to slowly release over time once it has been applied to the skin.

Gentle Cleanser (non foaming)

  • cleanses without stripping skin of natural oils
  • contains Peony essential oil which has a lovely fragrance
  • contains salicylic acid to minimize skin congestion

Day Moisture SPF 20

  • contains chemical free sun protection (zinc) for broad spectrum protection
  • snow mushroom extract for hydration
  • niacinamide (B3) to help brighten and clarify skin
  • Peptides for collagen stimulation and support
  • anti inflammatories from botanical extracts
  • Peony, Turmeric, Neem

Night Moisture (with Vit A)

  • Retinyl Palmitate (Vit A), increasing cellular turnover and collagen support
  • decreases inflammation utilizing botanical extracts
  • Vitamin C
  • Vitamin E
  • Peony, Turmeric, Neem
  • Niacinamide
  • Beta Carotene

Anti-Aging Power Serum (with Vitamin C)

  • Antioxidants
  • anti-inflammatory properties from botanical extracts
  • Antibacterial and antimicrobial effects from Neem
  • Turmeric/Curcumin which  is a potent anti inflammatory and stimulates bodies own antioxidant enzymes
  • Vitamin C in Qusome technology, protecting the fragile antioxidant molecule until application
  • Retinyl
  • Peony, Turmeric, Neem
  • Peptides

Eye Bright Cream- with caffeine

  • minimizes under eye puffiness
  • minimizes under eye dark circles
  • Cassava matrix technology which works like “shrink wrap” for the under eye
  • Retinyl
  • Peony, Turmeric, Neem
  • hydration
  • recognized by Allure® Magazine as a favorite new product May 2018!

This line is efficacious while being cosmetically elegant.  The products have a pleasant smell and lovely texure.  This line does not test on animals, is Dermatologist and Ophthalmologist tested, and does not contain a lot of the ingredients consumers tend to want to avoid.  (for example, parabens)

 

DECADES

aging face

Our skin care needs change as we age and it is easy to be overwhelmed by all of the choices out there.  This is a quick guide through the decades.

THE 20’s

In our twenties we are generally enjoying the glow of our youth.  This is a time when we frequently take for granted our smooth and plump skin.  This can be a time when we do a lot of the damage we regret years later.  This is a good time to be committed to a supportive skin care regime.

  • Sunscreen is a no brainer.  Ideally with zinc or titanium to assure long lasting, broad spectrum protection.
  • A topical antioxidant to ward off additional UV and free radical damage. (Vitamin C for example)
  • A retinol or low dose retinoid to keep those skin cells turning over and to help manage occasional breakouts.
  • This is the time to introduce an eye cream.  Remember, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.  You will thank yourself later in life.
  • For spot treatment of blemishes a product with salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide can be applied.  More is not better because you may replace your blemish with a dried scab which can then hyper pigment.
  • By now you have probably made the correlation with diet and skin and are aware that a healthy, well balanced diet helps all of your organs, including your skin. (in addition to not smoking!)

THE 30’s

Throughout our thirties we start to see subtle changes from exposure and repetitive muscle movement.  In addition to a supportive skin care regime we might consider extra steps to help during this decade.  We are producing less collagen and elastin by now and are starting to notice.

  • Botox® can be introduced to manage lines from repetitive movement. (frown lines, crow’s feet, etc)
  • Chemical peels can help to lift the outer layers of the skin diminishing pigmentation and fine lines and wrinkles. Collagen is stimulated in this process.
  • IPL’s can minimize pigmentation and redness in the skin.
  • Some patients opt to introduce small amounts of filler in their thirties where they are seeing changes related to volume loss.

THE 40’s

As we begin to experience shifts hormonally and as our estrogen levels drop we lose even more collagen, elastin and facial fat.  Our bones are also shrinking under all of that creating more changes we may not love.  Our sebaceous glands are producing less sebum and dry skin may become more of a concern.

  • Continuing with a skin care regime involving sunscreen, antioxidants and a retinol/retinoid is a must.  You may opt to increase the strength of the retinol/retinoid.
  • Additional moisture is frequently needed.  Look for products with ceramides, for instance.
  • Facial volume loss can be managed with an expanding menu of dermal fillers.
  • Botox® can be used to help “lift” when your injector relaxes the muscles pulling down (depressor muscles) allowing the elevator muscles to lift unopposed.
  • IPL’s and more aggressive lasers (fractionated erbium and CO2 for example) can be utilized to manage skin discoloration and texture changes.  Collagen stimulating treatments, like Ultherapy®, can be used to help combat the loss of collagen.
  • Neck, chest and hands can benefit from all of the above!

THE 50’s , 60’s, 70’s and 80’s (and beyond)

In our fifties  we are likely approaching menopause and are continuing to see age related changes.  As we continue in to our sixties and beyond this becomes more of an issue as post-menopausal skin experiences more age related changes without the support of estrogen.   We probably need to boost our moisture as our skin becomes drier.

  • Continue with the three pillars in skin care: sunscreen, antioxidants and retinol/retinoid.
  • Some find it helpful to cut back on the % of their retinol/retinoid to combat  dryness.
  • Increase moisture as needed.
  • Continue to see your provider to determine if Botox®, filler and various laser modalities can help obtain your aesthetic goals.
  • If surgery is appropriate, find a surgeon you trust and have vetted.

 

 

 

 

CURRENT FAVORITE EYE PRODUCTS

I have a few eye products in my rotation and feel they all have passed the test of time.  I have been using several of them for a number of years.

My two favorite eye creams, which I have at all times, are:

Alastin Eye

Alastin™ Restorative Eye Treatment™

  • Tri-Hex Technology™ which is a group of peptides that help to stimulate elastin and collagen, minimizing fine lines and increasing skin turgor around the eye area.
  • strengthens skin which helps to minimize any sagging, especially of the upper eye lid.
  • reduces puffiness and dark circles
  • brightens and evens skin color
  • has a gel like consistency,  although it is a cream, I like using it as an AM eye cream because it wears well under eye make-up.

microeye

Neocutis Micro⋅Eyes Rejuvenating Balm

  • Utilizes MPC™ technology which is also a group of peptides which have anti-aging skin benefits.
  • minimizes fine lines, crepiness, puffiness and dark eye circles.
  • wild yam and moisturizing lipids fight dryness and textural issues.
  • THIS is a super hydrating eye cream if you have issues with dry skin in the eye area.  It is like butter! (in a good way)
  • I like this product at night, as it is hydrating enough that I prefer a lighter cream during the day under make-up.

 

maybelline

Maybelline  Instant Age Rewind® Treatment Concealer

  • This very reasonably priced product has been on the market for a number of years and is available at your local grocery or drug store.  It is a product I use under my eyes everyday as part of my make-up routine.  It works just as well as any high end under eye concealer I have used and has the added benefit of having several peptides in its ingredient deck.  I prefer the brightener, which is a pinker shade and really brightens the undereye area.  The product is available in multiple shades for a variety of skin tones.  My feeling is if I am using an under eye concealer on a regular basis, why not have it have benefits for my skin!  I think I have been using this for 7+ years and occasionally try a higher end option, but go back to this tried and true product.

 

HOW TO COMMIT TO A SKIN CARE REGIME

routine products

We all have the best intentions whether it be related to our diet, exercise program or other goals.  This is about committing to a solid skin care regime.  Just like all other ‘habits’ it can take practice for a new skin care program to become the new normal.   I believe the research shows that it takes 21 days for a new practice to become a habit.  So, how can we make that easier and help insure we will commit?

The easier we can make it for ourselves, the more likely we are to experience success.

First off, decide what your day time skin care should look like for you and what you are trying to target.  Ideally, everyone includes an antioxidant and a sunscreen with zinc every morning.  A night time routine should include a retinol/retinoid and plenty of moisture.  Once you have established which skin care items are going to suite your skin care needs make sure the products are accessible.  It can be easy to want to skip any part of the routine when we are in a rush to get out in the morning or we are exhausted at night.

Have all your must use products easily accessible.  I keep a tray with my current products on the bathroom counter next to my sink.  I am always able to commit in the morning, it is at night, sometimes, when I am exhausted, that I might be less committed.  But once I brush my teeth my products are right there so I rarely skip.

I am a true believer in topical skin care.  I came in to medical aesthetics with pretty sun damaged skin and can honestly say that I turned my skin around.  I once thought tanner was better.  I even used tanning beds back in the day.  Being a pale red head, this was just a bad idea on so many levels.    I believe that what we use topically is a big piece of the “pie” and is worth the money and time.

I tell patients to, at the very least,  commit to an antioxidant, sunscreen and retinol/retinoid.  I am a huge fan of products with multiple peptides these days as well.

Maybe this well help you get on board with a topical skin care routine.

Happy Monday!

 

 

 

ALASTIN RESTORATIVE EYE TREATMENT

Alastin Eye

The next product I wanted to share details about is the Alastin™ Restorative Eye Treatment™.  As with the other products from this line I have reviewed, the eye product contains their, patent pending, TriHex Technology™.  This combination of peptides helps our skin perform its best.  The peptides help your skin cells  to communicate better and form new collagen and elastin.  The elastin in the eye area will help to firm and minimize puffiness in the area.  Sounds good to me!

Along with the Restorative Skin Complex™, I have been using this eye product twice a day.  I do feel it has firmed my eye tissue, minimize fine lines AND helps with puffiness in the mornings.  This eye product is meant to be used on both the upper and lower lids.  On the upper lids it can create a lift as the skin thickens and tightens.

The key ingredients are:

  • Alastin Tri-Hex Technology™- As mentioned, a blend of peptides to stimulate collagen/elastin.
  • Niacinamide (Vit B3) and Squalane-  Helps to even skin tone and brighten the eye area.
  • Albizia Julibrissin Bark Extract (Mimosa Tree)- Anti inflammatory/calming benefits and decreased glycation (when sugars break down our cells).
  • Darutoside- Anti inflammatory/reduces capillary leakage diminishing dark circles and has an antihistamine effect.
  • Ornithine- Volumizer/helps support adipocytes (fat cells) to maintain youthful volume. *this will not create bags or too much volume
  • Trumellafuciformis Sporocarp Extract and Sodium Hyaluronate- Hydrators. Keep the skin plump and minimize fine lines.
  • Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspoymer- Light diffusing, diminishes appearance of fine lines.
  • Propyl Gallate (from oats, soothing) Epigallocatechin Gallatyl Glucoside (from green tea)- Improves appearance of under eye dark circles.

The eye area is one of the first to show evidence of aging, so starting the use of a quality eye cream with effective active ingredients sooner rather than later is worth our while.  It is easier to prevent than it is to correct!

 

IN WHAT ORDER SHOULD I APPLY MY SKIN CARE PRODUCTS ?

hand with product

If you are utilizing  products for anti-aging and general skin health it is important to do it in the right order to maximize absorption of active ingredients.  Combination therapy to target specific skin issues along with general good skin care involves multiple products or steps.

A good standard to keep in mind is thinnest to thickest.

Here is a quick guide 🙂

  • Cleanse
  • Tone
  • Medication (for instance, spot treatment for acne)
  • Growth Factors (such as SkinMedica TNS or Neocutis Bioserum)
  • Serums
  • Eye Cream
  • Moisturizer
  • Skin Oil (if you utilize an oil in place of moisturizer or on top of moisturizer)
  • Sunscreen

An exception is retinols/retinoids at night.  I have heard they should be applied first after skin has dried as well as applying if after moisture.  I think if your retinol/retinoid is not creating a lot of irritation it can go on first but applying it after moisture can minimize the irritation.

Ideally antioxidant serums are worn during the day along with a moisturizer as needed and sunscreen.  Vitamin C, in particular, provides additional UVA/UVB protection under ones sunscreen.   For women (and I suppose some men as well) makeup would be applied last after the sunscreen has set.

I hope this helps you utilize your products and get the most out of them!!!!