goop BY JUICE BEAUTY

GOOP

I have had a number of people inquire what I thought of this new line of skin care from goop, Gwyneth Paltrow’s lifestyle brand.  She partnered with Juice Beauty to develop this organic line of skin care products.   Full disclosure, I have not had first-hand experience with any of these products myself, so my review is based on the ingredient decks alone.  The products are available on line at goop.com or at a small handful of vendors. (14 to be exact according to the website)

goop by JUICE BEAUTY is a line containing 6 products:

  • Luminous Melting Cleanser, $90 3.3 fl oz
  • Exfoliating Instant Facial, $125 1.7 fl oz
  • Enriching Face Oil, $110 1 fl oz
  • Revitalizing Day Moisture, $100 1.7 fl oz
  • Replenishing Night Cream, $140 1.7 fl oz
  • Perfecting Eye Cream, $90 0.5 fl oz

The line is free of parabens, petroleum, pesticides, propylene/butylene glycols, phthalates, sulfates, PEGs, TEA, DEA, GMO, silicones, artificial dyes and artificial fragrances.  There is no animal testing in the development of this line.

They completed, through a third party,  independent and blind 8 week  clinical tests with 32 women between the ages of 35 and 65.  The website includes various statistics related to the efficacy of the line based on these trials.

Meristem Technology ™, which is derived from Poet’s Daffodil and Sweet Iris, is utilized in several products.  This is plant stem cell (meristem cell) technology.  There have been various products over the years using plant based stem cells. However,  there is no evidence that these stem cells are able to be utilized in human skin.  These stem cells are only able to become plant specific specialized cells.  However, there is evidence that there are antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties to this type of ingredient.

A juice blend (aloe, lemon, apple and grape) containing antioxidants is the first product in the deck for the exfoliating facial and the day, night and eye cream.   I will briefly review each product.

Luminous Melting Cleanser

Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil*, Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil*, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil*, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Wax, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter*, Essential Oil Blend: Monarda Didyma (Bergamot) Oil, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil and Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Oil, Iris Pallida (Sweet Iris) Leaf Cell Extract, Narcissus Poeticus (Poet’s Daffodil) Flower Extract, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Jojoba Esters, Tocopherol, Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter

This cleanser is composed of a multitude of oils as you can see in the ingredient deck.  It additionally has Vitamen E (Tocopherol)  lower in the deck.  The Polygyceryl-10 Laurate is an emulsifier usually derived from coconut oil.  This is a hydrating cleanser and I believe those with very dry skin would be pleased with this product.  I worry about the oil content and cocoa butter being too thick for some individuals, possibly clogging pores.

Enriching Face Oil

Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil*, Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil*, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil*, Linum Usitatissimum (Linseed) Seed Oil*, Capric/Caprylic Triglyceride, Citrus Aurantium Amara (Bitter Orange) Leaf/Twig Oil, Pelargonium Graveolens (Rose Geranium) Flower Oil, Tocopherol, Anthemis Nobilis (Roman Chamomile) Flower Oil, Iris Pallida (Sweet Iris) Leaf Cell Extract, Narcissus Poeticus (Poet’s Daffodil) Flower Extract, Vaccinium Macrocarpon (Cranberry) Seed Oil, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil*, Borago Officinalis (Starflower) Seed Oil*, Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Oil.*

This is a moisturizing combination of oils that can be applied alone or in addition to a moisturizer.  I think this would be appropriate to replace moisture for most skin types, other than oily.  The oils do contain antioxidants and they added Vitamen E (Tocopherol) to this product as well, which I like.

Exfoliating Instant Facial

Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe) Leaf Juice*, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Juice*, Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Juice*, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Juice*, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Lactic Acid, Microcrystalline Cellulose, Cetyl Esters, Stearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil*, Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate, Glycolic Acid, Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer, Diheptyl Succinate, Coco-Glucoside, Essential Oil Blend: Monarda Didyma (Bergamot) Oil, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil, and Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Oil, Iris Pallida (Sweet Iris) Leaf Cell Extract, Narcissus Poeticus (Poet’s Daffodil) Flower Extract, Sodium Hydroxide, Vaccinium Myrtillus (Bilberry) Fruit Extract, Malic Acid, Xanthan Gum, Gluconolactone, Tartaric Acid, Saccharum Officinarum (Sugar Cane) Extract, Titanium Dioxide, Hydroxypropylcellulose, Sodium Benzoate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Salicylic Acid, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Extract, Citrus Limon (Lemon) Fruit Extract, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Acer Saccharum (Sugar Maple) Extract, Panthenyl Triacetate.

Again, this product contains their juice blend and essential oil blend.  It also contains a combination of acids for exfoliation: glycolic, malic, tartaric and salicylic.  The web site warns that it may be very active for some people and to test on a patch first.  I think this is good advice.  The acids are a combination of AHAs (alpha hydroxy acid), BHAs (beta hydroxy acid) with the addition of a PHA (poly hydroxyl acid), gluconolactone. The sugar cane extract is another source of glycolic acid and the sugar maple extract is another source of AHA.  I would imagine one could obtain a nice glow from this product.  It also has hyaluronic acid which will help to hydrate the cells as well.  The other ingredients (that are hard to pronounce)  are fillers, bulking agents, binders, emulsifiers, and silicone alternatives.

Revitalizing Day Moisturizer

Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe) Leaf Juice*, Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Juice*, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Juice*, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Juice*, Glycerin*, Vegetable Oil, Diheptyl Succinate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Coconut Alkanes, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Fusanus Spitacus (Sandalwood) Kernel Oil, Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate, Stearic Acid, Squalane, Essential Oil Blend: Monarda Didyma (Bergamot) Oil, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil, and Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Oil, Cetearyl Olivate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Glyceryl Stearate, Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate, Sorbitan Olivate, Iris Pallida (Sweet Iris) Leaf Cell Extract, Narcissus Poeticus (Poet’s Daffodil) Flower Extract, Gluconolactone, Hydrogenated Olive Oil, Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil*, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil*, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Benzoate, Behenyl Behenate, Tribehenin, Lysolecithin, Sclerotium Gum, Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax, Linum Usitatissimum (Linseed) Seed Extract, Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer, Sodium Hydroxide, Pullulan, Tocopherol, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Helianthus Annus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Ascorbic Acid.

The juice blend leads this ingredient deck.  There are multiple oils, including their essential oil blend,  and emulsifiers in this moisturizer.  Additionally, there is a peptide, (Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5) for collagen stimulation, Vitamin E, (Tocopherol) and Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid).  I would love to have seen the Vitamin E and C higher in the ingredient deck.  Again, a lot of the other ingredients are silicone alternatives, stabilizers, thickeners, emollients and preservatives.  All in all, I think this sounds like a good moisturizer for most skin types.  The oil content may make it not ideal for more oily skin types.

Replenishing Night Cream

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice*, Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Juice*, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Juice*, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Juice*, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Stearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Coconut Alkanes, Fusanus Spicatus (Sandalwood) Kernel Oil, Glyceryl Stearate, Gluconolactone, Essential Oil Blend: Monarda Didyma (Bergamot) Oil, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil, And Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Oil, Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer, Diheptyl Succinate, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter*, Iris Pallida (Sweet Iris) Leaf Cell Extract, Narcissus Poeticus (Poet’S Daffodil) Flower Extract, Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil, Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil*, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil*, Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Kernel Oil*, Squalane, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Macadamia Integrifolia (Macadamia) Seed Oil, Jojoba Esters, Cetearyl Glucoside, Xanthan Gum, Linum Usitatissimum (Linseed) Seed Extract, Behenyl Behenate, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Ascorbic Acid, Tocopherol, Tribehenin, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Hyaluronic Acid, Retinyl Palmitate.

This night cream also contains their juice blend and essential oil blend.  It additionally contains numerous emollients, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Vitamin C (3-0-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and Ascorbic Acid),  Vitamin E, (Tocopherol) Hyaluronic Acid and Retinyl Palmitate.  I am, again, happy to see the ingredient deck containing antioxidants, hyaluronic acid and a retinol.  I am a big fan of using a retinol at night.   However, ideally the “actives” would be higher in the ingredient deck.  The Radish Root Ferment Filtrate is a preservative used in place of, for instance, parabens.  This looks to be a good moisturizer for non-oily skin as well.

Perfecting Eye Cream

Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe) Leaf Juice*, Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Juice*, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Juice*, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Juice*, Vegetable Oil, Glycerin*, Glyceryl Stearate, Polyglyceryl-6 Tetraoleate, Jojoba Esters, Coconut Alkanes, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Fusanus Spicatus (Sandalwood) Kernel Oil, Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate, Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate, Squalane, Hydrogenated Olive Oil, Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil*, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil*, Iris Pallida (Sweet Iris) Leaf Cell Extract, Narcissus Poeticus (Poet’s Daffodil) Flower Extract, Caprylyl Glycol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Lonicera Caprifolium (Honeysuckle) Flower Extract, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax, Xanthan Gum, Tocopherol, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil.

An emollient eye cream based on the ingredient deck.  I would also like to see the actives (Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 and Tocopherol) higher in the ingredient deck.  The preservative in this product, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, is derived from coconut oil, avoiding parabens.  Most of the other ingredients are emollients and thickeners.

All in all, I think this line looks like a good line for someone seeking organic skin care.  I do think the products are priced high, especially the cleanser!  I am willing to pay that much for a product with high %’s of the actives, but when they are low on the ingredient deck it leaves me cool.  THAT being said, I really have not been able to determine exactly what antioxidants are in their juice blend and how bio-available they are.   Antioxidants are tricky because they can be unstable and need to be a particular pH for the skin to utilize them.  The packaging looks simple and sleek.  It appears that 2 of the 6 products are in air-tight containers.  Ideally, they would all be, to keep the product from oxidizing.  The ingredient decks contain non-toxic ingredients.  Without some of the conventional preservatives ,I think the products would benefit that much more being in air tight containers.

Someone with oily skin would probably find this line to be too oily.  Those with sensitive skin may experience irritation from a number of the essential oils.

* I think the line could use a sunscreen as if you are not protecting yourself from the sun you undo a lot of the good from quality skin care.

If anyone has tried any of these products I’d love to hear what you think!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

HOW OUR FACE AGES

facial changes 2

Our face experiences numerous structural changes over the years and having a general concept of these changes can help approach a customized aesthethic treatment plan.

Changes occur over time with the skin, fat, muscle and bone contributing to our facial changes, most notably, volume loss.

Over time our skin becomes thinner, drier and experiences a reduction in collagen.  The skin becomes less elastic and is likely to sag and wrinkle.  Sun damage contributes and causes skin discoloration as well.

fat 2

Additionally, our facial fat pads atrophy (break down) and shift under the skin leading to facial volume loss.  We tend to lose volume in the temples and mid face while gaining volume around the mouth, jaw and lower face.  The separation in the fat pads results in visible unevenness in our facial contours, where once it was a smooth with the apex at the lateral cheek.

bone 2

Bone loss over the years is another reason for the loss of volume.  Bone resorption over the years causes the overlying structures to loose support.

full face aging changes

The above diagram notes some of the commonly noted changes that individuals eventually seek treatment for.  There is not a one size fits all approach as we all experience age related facial changes differently.

Fillers such as HA’s, (hyaluronic acid) Sculptra® or Radiesse® can be used to return volume where it is lost.  Restoring volume in certain areas can have a nice impact on the contours, restoring a more refreshed appearance.  For instance, mid face.  Mid face volume does not only restore volume to the mid face but tends to have a lifting effect to all the tissues below.  Nasolabial folds, oral commissures and marionette lines all soften with mid face correction.

Some of the lines from repetitive muscle movement are best treated with Botox®, Dysport® or Xeomin®.  (such as the frown lines, crows feet or horizontal forehead lines)